A razor-sharp and lip-smarting pickle is a permanent fixture of any meal I throw together involving the remains of Sunday's roast. Quinces, shining amber and gold in their pickling liquor, are unusual, offering a pleasing change from the icy crunch of the more usual pickled onion. Enough for 2 medium-sized storage jars.

750ml cider vinegar
400g golden granulated sugar
3 medium-sized quinces or 4 smaller ones
12 juniper berries
8 black peppercorns
a bay leaf

Pour the vinegar into a stainless-steel pan. Add the golden sugar, juniper berries, black peppercorns and bay leaf and bring to the boil. Turn the heat down to a merry simmer.

Peel, halve and core the quinces, cutting them into six lengthways. Lower the quince into the simmering vinegar and leave the fruit to cook for 15-25 minutes, until it is soft enough to pierce effortlessly with a skewer.

Lift the soft fruits out with a draining spoon and lower them into clean storage jars. Pour over the liquor, then seal and leave to cool. They will keep for several weeks.